Within this series of articles I have been covering the beginning
work relative to raising a competitive working dog. The goal of our foundation
work is to raise a dog that is strong and confident, active in his drives
and highly motivated.
In Schutzhund the front position is shown in both the recalls and
the retrieves. The front is neither a point heavy exercise nor an exercise
on its own. The front is a segment of bigger exercises, a link in the chain
of a smooth correct performance. It is interesting then the considerable
amount of time and energy that many handlers spend working on this small
piece. We could dwell on the deeper psychological reasons for this common
occurrence. We could also cover all the details of teaching front position.
However the one option is not the point of this series and the other seems
unnecessary given the human habit of working front position. Nearly all handlers
know what correct front looks like; they all know how to get the dog to that
position. We will instead spend our time exposing common errors and highlight
alternative techniques to ensuring correct fronts.
Schutzhund obedience is a series of individual exercises shown as
a whole. Each exercise is made up of smaller segments. The most efficient
and successful method to teach each exercise is by breaking it down to its
smaller parts. We illustrated that in the previous issue, by breaking the
recall up covering only the response to the hier command. The other parts
of the recall exercise are the build up, the motion command (down or stand),
the front and the finish. The motion commands are taught separately, the
finish is taught separately and likewise so is the front. When the dog knows
and performs each segment well, only then do we begin to string the parts
together.
THE COMMON WAY
Far and away the most common error in teaching recalls is insisting
on front position too soon and too often. The result is diminished speed
in response to the hier command. A fast return often results in a crooked
front. The handler corrects the dog for the front, never rewarding them for
the fast return. The dog then begins to lose incentive for the fast return.
Compounding the problem, the handler shows disapproval for the lack of speed.
We then begin to see a dog that does not show proper speed in the recall,
comes to front very slowly and hesitantly and often is still not straight
and close in front.
Another major error in teaching recalls is hopefully rarely seen
anymore. The old method of using a leash to correct the dog to you is the
worse thing a handler could do. Never correct a dog for coming to you. There
is a clear distinct difference between correction for NOT coming to you and
correction FOR coming to you.
The next common error in teaching fronts is the handler attempting
to achieve straight and close by moving backwards. Nothing is accomplished
with this technique. It does not teach the dog what correct position is,
it does not teach the dog to get to correct position on their own, it does
not teach the dog to fix their position.
And finally many handlers reinforce this behavior by rewarding the
dog after the handler has changed her position in relation to the dog. Thus
the dog is rewarded for incorrect position!
A BETTER WAY
The alternative to the above mentioned methods involve teaching the
dog how to get his reward. He comes fast and hard in the recall for the toy.
He comes fast and hard because the handler greets him with enthusiasm and
praise. He comes fast and hard because his efforts are always rewarded. When
teaching the front the same principles apply. Alternating between reward
type and technique prevents the position from getting boring.
Similar to previous descriptions of teaching the sit and down, there
is a calm, neutral manner to the front and an active, driven one. Both are
useful and both can be used in conjunction with one another.
The active, driven method is to use the toy to get the dog in close
and fast. The speed gained from using booty drive correlates well with the
speed displayed in the recall. The common hang up using the drive method
is that the dog bumps or punches the handler coming to front. Don't confuse
your dog by asking for drive then correcting him when he gives it to you.
The bump in front when combined with the calm neutral methods will diminish
as the dog learns the position better. Maintain the drive to front by working
one or two "thinking" sessions, then one or two active sessions. Switch back
and forth during your training progression, keeping a balance between the
two.
For the "thinking" sessions food reward works best. Have food in
both hands as well as your mouth. When the dog is in correct position alternate
what location the dog is rewarded from. Right hand, mouth, left hand, etc.
The dog should keep focus on the handler's face regardless of where he is
rewarded. Accomplish this by withholding the reward until he looks at you,
then feed from some place. The dog can and will learn that looking at your
face triggers the reward, regardless of where the reward comes from. Doing
this keeps the dog centered and focused, maintaining correct position.
To get the dog to come in closer, use the active, drive method initially.
(Photo 1A & 1B) Handler and dog should feel comfortable with physical
contact in the front position. Close is more important than clean, drive
is more important than correctness. When trying to get the dog an inch or
so closer using food, resist the temptation to move your body backwards.
Instead, experiment with your body position in relation to the dog. Don't
lean back, as that pushes the pelvis out keeping the dog farther away. Leaving
the legs a little open, the knees a little bent helps to achieve this 'pocket'
for the dog to move into.
Beginning when you initially teach the dog fronts, all the way through
the dog's career emphasize the dog correcting his position himself. Accomplish
this using the food to move the dog in a better position. Move the food in
front of the dog, don't move your feet. When working the active drive version,
slight bumps to the chest with your knee will push the dog a bit away, allowing
him to return correctly. (Photos 2A-2C) Booty drive makes for higher attraction
effect, allowing for more physical training. Whether the dog returns correctly
by accident or purposefully makes no difference. The correct position produces
his reward. The chest bumps were incentives, but changing the position was
the dog's effort. Reward effort. Effort does not need to be rewarded as highly
as being initially correct, but effort should always result in praise and
acknowledgement.
The proofing methods for the front teach the dog that front position
is straight and close regardless of the dog's initial direction or position.
These are the "thinking sessions."
We accomplish this by calling the dog to front from any number of
places. Leave the dog in a sit; take two steps from the front of him to either
side. Call him to front, and then help him show correct position. From heel
position, leave the dog in a sit; take one step in front then turn to either
side creating a right angle between yourself and the dog. (Photo 3A) Call
him to front, help him show correct position. Leave the dog in a sit; take
several steps in front of him. (Photo 3B) With your back to the dog, call
him to front and help show correct position. Leave the dog in a sit; take
several steps behind him. Face either towards the dog or away from the dog,
call him to front and help him show correct position.
